Army Tones from Rag & Bone

Rag&Bone- Spring RTW 2010

I applaud David Neville and Marcus Wainwright, the genius’ behind the brand for once again delivering a ready-to-wear collection that caters famously to both men and women. It is a great achievement when a label can present a collection that is not gender bias, but actually raises the sex appeal in the room! Neville and Wainwright are using the economy to inspire a simple look that adds slouch to classic pieces like the oversized tux jackets, dress shirts and slacks varying slightly for both men and women. For a while designers have been dabbling with the androgynous look but sometimes fail to maintain the femininity or masculinity for the target audience. Rag & Bone have taken staple items that are worn by both genders, but have ensured to keep the XX’s and the XY’s in order. Nicole Phelps of style.com interviewed Wainwright after the show, and in his own words he describes his and Neville’s collection as “English, military-school heritage mixed with a utilitarian, made-in America ethos.” (www.style.com)

For women, oxford shoes, mid-calf socks and tapered pants add an avant-garde and feminine touch to the British school-boy look. Keeping the colours neutral and military based with army greens, camels, off-whites, greys and browns. Blazer necklines are plunging, while blouses are buttoned from top to bottom. Cutaway, loose tanks and slouchy blouses are belted whether tucked or un-tucked.

For men, it’s all about layering and playing on the three piece look beginning with soft long-sleeved Henley’s and round or barely collared dress shirts. Adding the sharp shaped vest with oversized tux or Sgt. Pepper militia blazers and overcoats adds an element of sophistication to the look. That being said the darker colours, rugged material and combination of slouch and clean cuts make the look not so innocent giving more of a sexy, bad boy image.

All in all, Rag & Bone has yet again delivered a badass but sexy collection for both men and women. Slightly rough, but somewhat innocent is the name of the game and while that may seem complicating, it must look simple and effortless.

photos via www.style.com